Tart Refreshment

You’ve got to hand it to the Germans. They’ve been making beer for thousands of years. They brew, well, created arguably more styles than any other country. They throw the largest beer party in the world. And they do the seasonal drinking thing better than just about anywhere else on the planet.
Being that it is now officially summer for both Germans and Americans, it’s not a surprise that this edition of the Beer Snob focuses on wheat beer. Wheat is of course, one of the styles that Germans do best. And, while there are at least five different styles of German wheat beer, today I want to discuss a little known type of wheat beer, a sour wheat ale that should definitely be in your summer arsenal — Berliner Weisse.
The prevailing theory of the origins of Berliner Weisse holds that French Huguenot immigrants to the area around Berlin brought the style with them after passing through Flanders, an area with Belgian and French influence. Aspects of this early sway on the beer can be seen in the style having some similarities to Belgian Witbier.
Around Berlin, this style of light, refreshing, tart, sour and acidic beer was quite popular during the 19th century, although many breweries specializing in Berliner Weisse began closing up shop during the mid-20th century. The style might have gone extinct were it not for a handful of artisanal brewers in Germany as well as the adventurous craft brewers in America.
Berliner Weisse is typically pale straw in color, can be hazy in appearance, and offers a short-lived but voluminous white head of froth. The beer can be slightly flowery, but more so the aroma will be sharp and acidic. Flavors follow the smell, and are often lactic and strong, but a favorable sourness or tartness of wheat and yeast is obvious. Hops will be minimal to nonexistent, and malt will be secondary to the wheat.
Highly refreshing, dry and quick in the finish, the beer is not overly complex. Historically and in modern time, to deal with the acidity of this type of beer, many patrons and bartenders will add a syrup to the beer, most often either a red raspberry or a green woodruff, an herb with a flavor of hay or even earthy vanilla.
One of the best-flavored Berliner Weisse beers on the market is Dogfish Head Brewing’s yummy Festina Pêche. As you might imagine from the name, this is a peach beer. But, as with any quality and tolerable fruit beer, the additional flavor should not overwhelm the original style of beer. You will notice a hint of peach in the smell and taste of Festina Pêche, but it will not overwhelm, and the classic aspects of the beer will come through.
From the Dogfish Head website: “In Festina Pêche, since the natural peach sugars are eaten by the yeast, the fruit complexity is woven into both the aroma and the taste of the beer so there is no need to doctor it with woodruff or raspberry syrup. Just open and enjoy!”
With the growing trend toward more and more sour beers, this one might seem tame. However, it’s tasty and easy going, and at 4.5 percent alcohol by volume, this beer is a summer session waiting to happen, get your Pêche on. Enjoy the brews … Cheers.
Gene’s Haufbrau has more than 200 beers in bottles or on tap. Gene’s is located at 817 Savannah Hwy. 225-GENE. E-mail the Beer Snob at publisher@westof.net.