As temperatures begin to rise, and days lengthen, it might be time to lighten up, however slightly, your beer choice. A great option for a beer that is lighter in body, but full on taste comes from Germany, and fits nicely into a brisk March or April day. Schwarzbier, or “black beer” is a rare little lager that’s perfect for spring
While stouts and porters often come to mind when dark beer is discussed, they’re not the only choices available in the realm of dark beer. Whereas those two ales are hearty and thick, the two options in the dark lager category are of interest during the present season and both are a good deal lighter in body and texture compared with stouts and porters, yet both offer rich flavors and deep colors. Schwarzbiers and Dunkel Lagers are excellent choices when you want something light in mouthfeel, but dark in color and tasty. The main difference here is that Schwarzbiers will have a much darker color, and more importantly, a roasted flavor (yet nowhere near as roasted as porter).
Further Schwarzbiers have this roasted flavor of the malt, without the burnt, bitter taste that is associated with dark ales, especially stouts. What bitterness Schwarzbiers possess, it’s gained from the addition of hops during brewing process. The lagering process also makes the beer somewhat lighter in nature. Although these beers have sweet side, they’re not nearly as sweet as many of the darker ales.
Two very good American brewed versions are Black Bavarian from Sprecher Brewing Co., a touch sweeter and considerably more hoppy than a classic version, but it’s a enjoyable beer, and Duck Rabbit Craft Brewery’s Schwarzbier, a rich and slightly smoky, but light(er)-bodied clean finishing lager. Locally, Westbrook’s Dark Helmet is more than a great name, it is also a great version of this often overlooked style.
However, if you want to taste a true “black beer” you have to turn to the motherland. Köstritzer Schwarzbier offers a fantastically German bottle, complete with a lion, umlauts, ribbons, and some Teuton in a 17th century get-up drinking from a long-stemmed snifter. Brilliant.
Poured into a glass, one would be forgiven for thinking you had been mistakenly given a brown ale, even held to the light you might think an amber. But one whiff of this beer and you’re certain it’s a lager. Grain leads off, followed by a bready malt.
If I’m completely honest, the beer caught me off guard. Likely I havent’ have a lager since Oktober, and I wasn’t ready. Yet, after a few sips, my tastebuds adjusted, and I really enjoyed this black beer. As would be expected in a traditional German brew, this schwarzbier is strong in malt flavor, roasted and lovely, with just a touch of hop taste, and a hint of nutty flavor over more grain.
An extremely clean-drinking beer and, while it is barely medium-bodied in the mouth, and smooth in texture, it is nowhere near the thickness and flavor strength of any of the dark ales. The Köstritzer Schwarzbier checks in at 4.8 ABV (alcohol by volume) and is perfect for a spring session. When you need a break from the heavy beers, but don’t want to venture into the light, seek out a Schwarzbier and take in the flavor over a few pints. May the Schwarz be with you … Cheers.
Gene’s Haufbrau has more than 200 beers in bottles or on tap. Gene’s is located at 817 Savannah Hwy. 225-GENE. E-mail the Beer Snob at publisher@westof.net.

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